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Tuesday, December 18, 2012

Jacket butterick b5417 part 1

I started working on Butterick  B5417 last weekend. I am determined to do an excellent job as this fabric is very expensive and my sewing A D D is strong and there are so many things I want to do on my sew-vacation the week of the 24th.

On to the jacket

To start I decided to make my fitting changes. I am starting with a size 20. However as I type this 3 days later I should start with an 16 or 18. I am making my typical adjustments. First I traced the pattern onto vellum.

- 3.5" FBA ( I am now using with success the slash and spread method by "fit for real people". I was using the pivot and slide by nancy zieman but I like the slash and spread more. They each give the same results). This FBA created a side bust dart. I like the idea of the shaping because this is a very simple boxy jacket.

-next I lowered the waist an additional 1/2". On butterick and vogue I have to make a 4" waist adjustment. And this because of my large tata's.

- I then did another pin fit. I do these by myself and maybe I need to start video taping because as you will see later my adjustments were off by 6" in the back.

- next I did a 3" broad back adjustment ( later you will see that this was w a a a y too much).

After this I made a muslin. I sewed the darts and side-seams and shoulders. After that i test fit. The muslin fit ok so I finalized my adjustments and laid out my fabric. On to cutting we go.

Back to the Diva den for more sewing




Tuesday, December 11, 2012

Butterick B5147

I have had great success sewing Butterick B5147.   After seeing Carolyn's versions (her blog here) i decided to try my own. So far i have made two wearable versions of this dress in Apple Green Linen & Black Jacquard..  My favorite is in the Apple Green Linen Rayon Blend.  I have already worn the green dress twice, dropped chipotle on it and a cup of coffee.  It is offically a permannt member of my wardrobe.



 I purchased 5 yards of the stuff on sale at Fabric.com 2 years ago.  I believe it was on clearance for something like $1.95 a yard.  I had a specific suit in mind  (V8799 - Below) .  The fabric is truly beautiful and the photos really don't show it.

Well now all plans have changed and i am planning on making the jacket from B5147 and a pencil skirt from my skirt block.  Using the Fabric below.  Isn't is beautiful.  The photo really does not show how pretty this fabric is.  I have washed it according the instrucitons and the silver lines you see below have puckered creating this boucle affect. I am so excited about working on the jacket of B5147.  

For now here is my review of B5147


Pattern Description: MISSES’/MISSES’ PETITE JACKET, TOP, DRESS AND SKIRT: Jacket A has front and back darts, collar and three-quarter length sleeves. Top B has front and back darts, side zipper. Slim fitting dress C has front and back darts, back zipper and back slit, length is 2" below mid-knee. A-line dress D has front and back darts, back zipper, length is mid-calf. Slim fitting skirt E has front and back darts, back zipper and back slit, length is 2" below mid-knee. A-line skirt F has front and back darts, back zipper, length is mid-calf. All garments are lined. Pattern Sizing: 16--> 24

 Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? So far i have only sewn the Dress, View C with alterations


Were the instructions easy to follow? I followed the instructions somewhat. This is an easy dress and one can figure out what to do without the instructions.

 What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I LOVE! this pattern it's super easy (A mojo builder) and drafted well. Lately the Big4 have been running a bit large on my so i have been going down a size. I dislike the instructions on how to do the vent with linning. But this may have been becuase i didn't read the isntructions. :)

Fabric Used: An Apple Green Raylon Linen Blend

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The first muslin i made i cut the 24 and did a FBA. the dress was HUGE! at some point i just stopped trying to adjust the fabric and gave up and threw it out!. The next attempted i decided to not make a muslin and just wing it!. I cut the 20 and did an FBA. Lengthened the dress by two inches. the fit was PERFECT! i did have a bit of baggieness in the armhole, but i fixed that with the thrid version of this dress by making the side bust dart larger. I also moved the front bust darts becuase i did a 4" FBA (just on the top portion of the dress btw) . I also decided omit the instructions on the hem and did the lazy sewers way. I cut it down to 3/4" and ran a double stich along the hem.

 Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? This is certainly a wardrobe builder a shift dress is something every woman needs, and maybe three or four of them. I recommend this pattern to begginners and those trying to build a wardrobe.

 Conclusion: This is a great pattern and i am now planning to work on the jacket

Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Ciao Bella - More Sewing Inspiration

Reboot

I have started sewing again and have been really working on making sure my items look professional and well made.  In an effort to challenge myself i have drafted my own skirt block. and since drafting this block i have made now 5 skirts.  2 pencils, 1 straight & an A-line skirt.  What is so awesome is that the skirts only require 1 yard of fabric so I can afford the more expensive fabric.I used the following Instructions to create my block You-tube Video in addition to the video she has printed materials as well located HERE.  I did all of my measurements using centimeters and referenced the following template located HERE.  I must say it has truly been fun sewing skirts out of my own drafted pattern.  In addition it takes less than 45 min. to knock out one with a zip and buttoned waistband - gotta love it!.  I will eventually post photos of my work but for now here is some inspiration:


Feeling BRIGHT



Bardot low back top, $52 / Versace high waisted mini skirt / Dorothy Perkins wedge high heels / Beige bag, $235 / Dorothy Perkins mesh jewelry, $16 / Burberry square sunglasses

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Casual Jacket





My latest project was simplicity 2662.
This is a project runway pattern and i was plesantly surprised to find how easy it was. The instructions were very easy to read and this project came together very quickly. Inside you will find 1 jacket, pants, tunic and dress.
Now on to the review

Pattern: Simplicity 2662
Fabric Used: Wool Boluce from Joann Fabrics Rivera spring collection
Interfacing used: Tricot Fusible from Pellon at Joanns
Machine Used: Serger and Standard
Size: 26W - 32W
Alterations: I stitched the 26W and took it in on the side seams about 2 inches. I should of sewn the 24W instead of the 26W. Next time i will interface where the pleats are to provide some support.

Instructions: Very Easy!!! There weren't any crazy twists and turns. i have had bad project runway instructions and i was very happy to see that these were easy to understand.

Fit: The jacked is a relaxed fit. The jacket fits a little on the large size and i do belive that for large bust women this may not be a great jacket closed. Open i think it will be great with jeans and turtleneck, or a skirt and turtleneck.

Will i make it again? Yes but i may line the jacket, even though the instrcutions do not call for it. and may interface the boluce to add some stiffness.

Summary: This is a great jacket. For sure this will be a TNT that i will use when my mojo is on the low. and i will sew it again , i can see this jacket in lambskin leather...yummy! off to Banachs for some leather!