Jacket Butterick b5147 - part 2

Now I cut out my pattern pieces with my adjustments from part one. There aren't many but again my goal is to take my time and control my sewing ADD. Here are the tools I used.

1 rotary cutter
1 pair of super sharp sisccors.
1 80/11needle. Now this fabric is a jacquard and is thick and as you will learn later stretchy according to the rules I should use a 90-14 needle but I decided not too can't explain why. But it seemed right
2 spools of gutterum white polyester thread
1 spool of silk thread


I decided to mark my sewing lines and darts etc. by machine. I used black cotton thread and a white bobbin. I marked in black on the wrong side of the fabric. I forgot to add in my last post that I had to lengthen the front facing 4" so that it matched.

Next I interfaced using the Pelion easy tailor fusible. Now please note I recently purchased the book Tailoring - creating the perfect jacket. And I now realize I used the wrong interfacing. But It's ok I will fix the stability later. I pressed the fusible interfacing to the collar stand front facing and hem of the jacket and sleeves. ( this is where I truly needed a different weight interfacing)

So now it's time to sew. For this first attempt I think I will use the written instructions. BTW you are seeing my adjustment to the back piece.  Lowered the waist line.

Till next time

Jacket butterick b5417 part 1

I started working on Butterick  B5417 last weekend. I am determined to do an excellent job as this fabric is very expensive and my sewing A D D is strong and there are so many things I want to do on my sew-vacation the week of the 24th.

On to the jacket

To start I decided to make my fitting changes. I am starting with a size 20. However as I type this 3 days later I should start with an 16 or 18. I am making my typical adjustments. First I traced the pattern onto vellum.

- 3.5" FBA ( I am now using with success the slash and spread method by "fit for real people". I was using the pivot and slide by nancy zieman but I like the slash and spread more. They each give the same results). This FBA created a side bust dart. I like the idea of the shaping because this is a very simple boxy jacket.

-next I lowered the waist an additional 1/2". On butterick and vogue I have to make a 4" waist adjustment. And this because of my large tata's.

- I then did another pin fit. I do these by myself and maybe I need to start video taping because as you will see later my adjustments were off by 6" in the back.

- next I did a 3" broad back adjustment ( later you will see that this was w a a a y too much).

After this I made a muslin. I sewed the darts and side-seams and shoulders. After that i test fit. The muslin fit ok so I finalized my adjustments and laid out my fabric. On to cutting we go.

Back to the Diva den for more sewing

Butterick B5147

I have had great success sewing Butterick B5147.   After seeing Carolyn's versions (her blog here) i decided to try my own. So far i have made two wearable versions of this dress in Apple Green Linen & Black Jacquard..  My favorite is in the Apple Green Linen Rayon Blend.  I have already worn the green dress twice, dropped chipotle on it and a cup of coffee.  It is offically a permannt member of my wardrobe.

 I purchased 5 yards of the stuff on sale at Fabric.com 2 years ago.  I believe it was on clearance for something like $1.95 a yard.  I had a specific suit in mind  (V8799 - Below) .  The fabric is truly beautiful and the photos really don't show it.

Well now all plans have changed and i am planning on making the jacket from B5147 and a pencil skirt from my skirt block.  Using the Fabric below.  Isn't is beautiful.  The photo really does not show how pretty this fabric is.  I have washed it according the instrucitons and the silver lines you see below have puckered creating this boucle affect. I am so excited about working on the jacket of B5147.  

For now here is my review of B5147

Pattern Description: MISSES’/MISSES’ PETITE JACKET, TOP, DRESS AND SKIRT: Jacket A has front and back darts, collar and three-quarter length sleeves. Top B has front and back darts, side zipper. Slim fitting dress C has front and back darts, back zipper and back slit, length is 2" below mid-knee. A-line dress D has front and back darts, back zipper, length is mid-calf. Slim fitting skirt E has front and back darts, back zipper and back slit, length is 2" below mid-knee. A-line skirt F has front and back darts, back zipper, length is mid-calf. All garments are lined. Pattern Sizing: 16--> 24

 Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? So far i have only sewn the Dress, View C with alterations


Were the instructions easy to follow? I followed the instructions somewhat. This is an easy dress and one can figure out what to do without the instructions.

 What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I LOVE! this pattern it's super easy (A mojo builder) and drafted well. Lately the Big4 have been running a bit large on my so i have been going down a size. I dislike the instructions on how to do the vent with linning. But this may have been becuase i didn't read the isntructions. :)

Fabric Used: An Apple Green Raylon Linen Blend

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The first muslin i made i cut the 24 and did a FBA. the dress was HUGE! at some point i just stopped trying to adjust the fabric and gave up and threw it out!. The next attempted i decided to not make a muslin and just wing it!. I cut the 20 and did an FBA. Lengthened the dress by two inches. the fit was PERFECT! i did have a bit of baggieness in the armhole, but i fixed that with the thrid version of this dress by making the side bust dart larger. I also moved the front bust darts becuase i did a 4" FBA (just on the top portion of the dress btw) . I also decided omit the instructions on the hem and did the lazy sewers way. I cut it down to 3/4" and ran a double stich along the hem.

 Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? This is certainly a wardrobe builder a shift dress is something every woman needs, and maybe three or four of them. I recommend this pattern to begginners and those trying to build a wardrobe.

 Conclusion: This is a great pattern and i am now planning to work on the jacket

Ciao Bella - More Sewing Inspiration

Ciao Bella by beebusy-crafts featuring wide brim hats

Cutout dress / Alexander McQueen clutch wallet / Wide brim hat, $52 / Antiques on Old Plank Road - Westinghouse - 1 of 3--Original 14'...

Reboot

I have started sewing again and have been really working on making sure my items look professional and well made.  In an effort to challenge myself i have drafted my own skirt block. and since drafting this block i have made now 5 skirts.  2 pencils, 1 straight & an A-line skirt.  What is so awesome is that the skirts only require 1 yard of fabric so I can afford the more expensive fabric.I used the following Instructions to create my block You-tube Video in addition to the video she has printed materials as well located HERE.  I did all of my measurements using centimeters and referenced the following template located HERE.  I must say it has truly been fun sewing skirts out of my own drafted pattern.  In addition it takes less than 45 min. to knock out one with a zip and buttoned waistband - gotta love it!.  I will eventually post photos of my work but for now here is some inspiration:

Feeling BRIGHT by beebusy-crafts featuring low back tops

Bardot low back top, $52 / Versace high waisted mini skirt / Dorothy Perkins wedge high heels / Beige bag, $235 / Dorothy Perkins mesh jewelry, $16 / Burberry square sunglasses