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Saturday, December 29, 2012

BurdaStyle Plus 2008 Part 2 - The placket

As i mentioned before the instructions were fine until i had to stitch the right placket.  Since Burdastyle Magazine does not have pictures I had to imagine what was being instructed.  It took my Threee days ladies to figure the placket,  Yep you read it right Three days.

 Let me backup for a second.  This shirt is super easy it's the kind that you can stitch up 3 or 4 in a weekend.  But it has taken me ALLLLLLLLLL week to finish this top. I refused to make it a UFO, I want to finish this top and to finish it well.  So I searched the Internet for "hidden placket sewing instructions" i picked up every child's shirt  instruction on the Internet, none included a hidden placket for button holes.  I even searched Pattern Review and did not have much success. I searched YouTube and found one promising video on the Placket


So after watching the video iIdid have more confidence but you see it didn't exactly match up with my pattern but i understood the instructions more.

Here is how i did my placket.  


Burdastyle traced pattern


Missing Instruction: Cut right shirt front at right edge line so that left marked plaket is no longer a part of the shirt.  I must note when you trace the pattern you actually copy the facing/placket to the left and right.  Once could easily make this work with the placket already traced however the placket may not be hidden.


Burdaystyle Mag: Next Fold Right front band along center fold line, right side facing in stitch lower end closed.
 My version: with right sides together fold along center fold stitch bottom of placket (Straight Edge). Note the un-finished edges will not match.




Burdastyle Mag: Stitch open long edge together to front edge of right front piece - the hem allowance of front piece extends past lower edge of band.
My version: Stitch unfinished edge to front right shirt with right sides facing on RIGHT EDGE LINE.  The hem of the placket will be shorter than the hem of the shirt.



Burdastyle Mag: Overcast allowances together and press away from band.
My version: ZigZag Stitch (my machine has an overcast stitch) unfinished edges together (placket & shirt front).  Turn Band so that right sides of placket & shirt are facing.  Press seam allowance away from placket.



Burdastyle Mag:TopStitch blouse front close to seam & 7mm(1/4") from seam
My Version: Understitch or stitch in the ditch and top stitch 1/4" away from seam on shirt front, you will secure the seam allowance of the overcast edge

Burdastyle Mag: Work button holes in band as marked
My Version: With placket still flat - sew button holes, be sure not to catch the shirt of the remaining pieces of the placket.


Burdastyle Mag: Fold Front edge of band to outside to meet placement line. Press, paste upper edge and stitch lower edge closed.
My Version: Fold along the now CENTER fold line so that the folded edge meets the top stitching.  Press & steam the fold closed.  The fold should cover the button holes that that they are on the wrong side of the shirt.  Baste the upper edge closed and then stitch lower edge of the placket closed



Burdastyle Mag:use 3/16 long horizontal bars of narrow, closely spaced zigzag stitching to stitch fold edge of band (next to Steam) in place halfway between each pair of neighboring buttonholes.  Stitch another bar below lowest buttonhole, at the same spacing as the other bars.
My Vesrion: Using button setting on machine and button foot. tack between each button hole and at the bottom of the last button hole.


This is how i did my placket and it turned out GREAT! i am so excited because the shirt is really coming together. Up next - the Yoke.

Blog at you later.

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