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Wednesday, December 19, 2012

Butterick Jacket B5147 - Part 5 - IT FITS!

Elements of Tailoring & Guess What it FITS!

Today I made most of my alterations.  

1. After ripping apart the jacket at the back and shoulders i pressed the back and flatten the seams and ripped out the stitching.  Next i pinned the center back seam so that it was even and then laid the old piece on top.  I then removed 6" in from the back yep you read it right 6".  Do you see the strip there on the right...That is the piece i cut off. I learned a lesson here.  I have sewn the dress of B5147 the dress fits just a tad big in the hips (an adjustment to make later) i should have known that this jacket pattern was true to size.  Keep in mind i have lost 62 pounds and was familar with sewing the larger sizes and making enormous adjustments.  i am still working on sewing smaller sizes.

2 I added Hair Canvas interfacing to the hem on the sleeves & back.

3. added a back stay of a remnant piece of muslin

4. Added a Vent to the Center Back seam

After these changes I stitched it together at the side seams.  Next i decided to add canvas to the hem of the sleeves and to then sew them in flat.  I hate setting-in sleeves!!!  Next i stitched the side-seam and sleeve seam as one.  Tried it on and WOW! what a difference this jacket actually fits!.   I pinned the lining back to the collar and will sew that tomorrow.  I am undecided about lining the sleeves. the jacket fits so well i am just not sure if that is what i want to do. Becuase the facing is already interfaced and i have ZERO extra fabric i have decided to just interface with canvas where the buttons & button holes will be.  If you look at the photos below you will see a sample of the buttons i will use.  Now that i am seeing the button on the jacket i am not sure it's fancy enough for this silver fabric.

Well that's it for tonight i will do the next set of sewing tomorrow.

 Adjustment made to remove 6 total inches

 Added a Back Stay out of Muslin

 Added Canvas interfacing to the hem

 Added a Vent to the back

Set the Sleeves in FLAT 

 Checkout the Button

Starting to look like a jacket.

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