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Tuesday, December 18, 2012

Jacket butterick b5417 part 1

I started working on Butterick  B5417 last weekend. I am determined to do an excellent job as this fabric is very expensive and my sewing A D D is strong and there are so many things I want to do on my sew-vacation the week of the 24th.

On to the jacket

To start I decided to make my fitting changes. I am starting with a size 20. However as I type this 3 days later I should start with an 16 or 18. I am making my typical adjustments. First I traced the pattern onto vellum.

- 3.5" FBA ( I am now using with success the slash and spread method by "fit for real people". I was using the pivot and slide by nancy zieman but I like the slash and spread more. They each give the same results). This FBA created a side bust dart. I like the idea of the shaping because this is a very simple boxy jacket.

-next I lowered the waist an additional 1/2". On butterick and vogue I have to make a 4" waist adjustment. And this because of my large tata's.

- I then did another pin fit. I do these by myself and maybe I need to start video taping because as you will see later my adjustments were off by 6" in the back.

- next I did a 3" broad back adjustment ( later you will see that this was w a a a y too much).

After this I made a muslin. I sewed the darts and side-seams and shoulders. After that i test fit. The muslin fit ok so I finalized my adjustments and laid out my fabric. On to cutting we go.

Back to the Diva den for more sewing




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